Viscose is that sneaky fabric you’ve probably worn a hundred times without realizing it. It looks and feels like silk, but doesn’t come with the same price tag. But how sustainable is it, really? Let’s break it down in simple terms.
Key takeaways
- Viscose is a semi-synthetic fiber. While it’s made from plant-based cellulose, viscose is heavily processed with toxic chemicals, making it far from a purely natural or sustainable fabric.
- Traditional viscose production contributes to deforestation, pollutes water and air, and exposes workers to dangerous chemicals like carbon disulphide (especially in countries with weak environmental laws).
- Innovations like ECOVERO™, TENCEL™ Lyocell/Modal, and recycled viscose are significantly cleaner and safer. These versions reduce emissions, reuse chemicals, and protect forests, offering a far better choice for both people and the planet.
What is Viscose?
Viscose (also called rayon) is a semi-synthetic fabric made from cellulose, a substance found in trees like eucalyptus, beech, pine, or bamboo. It’s processed with a cocktail of chemicals to turn it into a viscous liquid, which is then spun into fibers and woven into fabric.
Yes, it’s made from trees. No, that doesn’t automatically make it the Greta Thunberg of textiles.
Viscose’s Origins
Viscose has been around for a while – since the 1800s, in fact. French scientist Hilaire de Chardonnet invented it as a cheaper alternative to silk. His version had one small problem: it was extremely flammable. Think elegant dress, but make it a fire hazard. Needless to say that it was quickly taken off the market.
Later, British scientists refined the process, and by the early 1900s, commercial viscose rayon hit the market. The name “viscose” comes from the sticky, viscous solution it’s made from.
Today, viscose is everywhere: in dresses, linings, scarves, curtains, upholstery, even carpets. Basically, if it drapes and flows, it could be viscose.
Properties of Viscose
Viscose isn’t just popular because it’s affordable. It has a lot going for it. Some of the most beneficial characteristics of viscose include that:
- It feels like silk: soft, smooth, and flowy. It drapes well and is relatively light.
- It’s breathable: great for warm weather as it doesn’t trap body heat.
- It holds color well: clothes stay bright and vibrant.
- It blends easily: often mixed with cotton, polyester, or other fibers.
The (Very Real) Downside of Viscose
Here’s the plot twist: even though viscose is plant-based, it’s not as sustainable as it sounds. In fact, it’s often linked to deforestation, pollution, and some serious health risks. Let’s break it down:
1. Chemical Use
Turning wood into viscose requires strong chemicals, like carbon disulphide, which can be toxic to both humans and the environment as they pollute waterways and reduce air quality.
Workers exposed to these chemicals can suffer from skin issues, lung disease, birth defects, and more. In many manufacturing hubs like China, India, and Indonesia, environmental regulations aren’t strict, which means factories can release toxic chemicals into nearby air and water.
2. Deforestation
The cellulose used to make viscose has to come from somewhere, and that “somewhere” is often old-growth forests. We’re talking about 1,000-year-old trees, Indigenous land, and endangered animal habitats – all being logged to make, well… t-shirts.
Nicole Rycroft from Canopy (a Vancouver-based NGO fighting to protect ancient forests) puts it bluntly: “Surely we are smarter than mowing down 1,000-year-old trees to make T-shirts.” Unfortunately, we’re not always that smart. A significant portion of viscose still comes from endangered forests in Brazil, Canada, Indonesia, and even Australia (where, yes, koala habitats have been affected).
Is Sustainable Viscose Possible?
Yes, but it depends on how it’s made. Some companies are working to make viscose more environmentally-friendly by using certified wood from responsibly managed forests, recycling chemicals and water in closed-loop systems, reducing energy and water use during production.
Here’s what to look for if you want the benefits of viscose without the environmental guilt.
- ECOVERO™: Made by Lenzing, ECOVERO™ is a certified eco-responsible viscose. The wood comes from sustainable forests, and the production generates up to 50% lower emissions and water impact compared to regular viscose. Nearly all chemicals are reused instead of being dumped.
- TENCEL™ Modal & Lyocell: These fabrics are made from similar raw materials but use safer and cleaner production methods. They are stronger, softer, and made in closed-loop systems that protect workers and the planet.
- Recycled Viscose: Some viscose variants are already being produced using a portion of recycled cotton fibers. However, achieving a high-quality end product often still requires a significant percentage of virgin fibers. Until recently, fully recycled viscose was not possible. Now, researchers at Lund University in Sweden have successfully created new viscose entirely from worn-out cotton sheets.
Which Brands are Using Sustainable Alternatives to Viscose?
Brands Using ECOVERO™
- Armedangels (Germany) – Ethical basics and dresses, Fair Wear certified
- Baukjen (UK) – Classic women’s wear, uses ECOVERO™ in some styles
- LANIUS (Germany) – Stylish pieces made with ECOVERO™ and organic cotton
- TAMGA Designs (Canada) – Colourful dresses and kidswear, uses ECOVERO™
Brands Using TENCEL™ Lyocell or Modal
- MATE the Label (USA) – Loungewear and basics in TENCEL™ & organic cotton
- tentree (Canada) – Everyday wear, plants 10 trees per item
- Patagonia (USA) – Activewear, including underwear with TENCEL™
- AKYN (UK) – Luxury sustainable fashion with TENCEL™
Brands Using Upcycled or Recycled Viscose
- The R Collective (UK – Hong Kong) – Fashion made from luxury brand leftovers
- OhSevenDays (Turkey) – Slow fashion made from industry surplus
Final Thoughts: Is Viscose Sustainable?
Viscose sits in a grey zone. It can be part of a sustainable wardrobe, but it depends heavily on sourcing and production. Regular viscose? Often linked to pollution and deforestation. But the newer, cleaner versions? Way better.
So yes, we can be smarter than cutting down ancient trees for clothes. The future of viscose depends on:
- Innovation in materials
- Brands that commit to better practices
- And you, the conscious consumer
Fashion is never just about what we wear. It’s about the story behind it, too.
Own anything made from viscose? Has this post changed how you see it? We’d love to hear your thoughts – share them in the comments below!